here we go again....need a project name though..

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Postby blacksheep-1 » Tue Feb 05, 2019 7:18 pm

Finished the bottom end, the paint marks tell me the bolts are torqued and that I haven't missed any

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old school cam installation, put the bolt in place, grab it with some vice grips and slide it through the bearings

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Postby blacksheep-1 » Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:06 pm

Ravaged the local swap meet.. E303 cam (new) , Trick flow springs and retainers(new) BBK headers (used), Melling high flow pump (new) HEI/Ford distributor and wires (new) an intake of dubious origin (new) and a set of FP roller lifters (new)...$725.00

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Postby blacksheep-1 » Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:07 pm

Well...ratfarts!! broken studs, soaking them overnight

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Postby blacksheep-1 » Thu Feb 07, 2019 5:08 pm

OK, so i soaked them overnight in PB blaster and exactly one came out...
So I applied heat..no habla
So..I have had decent luck with welding nuts on the ends and then using an impact to break them loose..

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and I broke them right off....

So the scheme then becomes..drill them out..it's important to use the smallest bit possible, center the hole..sometimes you can use a larger bit to counter sink the center of a broken bolt so that you can start the drill in center, in this case I started with a 1/8 bit..go slow.

I couldn't fit the heads into my tiny Smithy mill.
.Fortunately, I'm an honorary member of the Fraternal Order of Eagles..this is important because it allows me to eyeball anything with lazer beam accuracy

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The key here is to drill through the broken stud,, but not into the head, so keep measuring the depth in one of the good holes. If you go too far, you may get into a water jacket or exhaust runner, since these are smog heads there is also an EGR channel in there as well..

Once that is done you have a choice, do you use an easy out or an extractor?..well I hate sticking things into broken bolt holes because if you break an easy out or extractor you are screwed, and by screwed, I mean really , really really screwed... If you break those off you will now need to get an extremely sharp punch and basically shatter the extractor, because you can't drill it, and dig whats left of it out of the hole.

Still, it seemed like an easier route..

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But..that stud would not move, so instead of breaking the extractor, I drilled the hole to the correct tap drill size, and carefully tapped out what was left of the stud, you are basically grinding up the old stud, so stop a lot, blow the hole out and go back..about a 1/8 of a turn on the tap at a time..
and..success..

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and that EGR channel I mentioned, there is a hole in the back of the head, next to the firewall..the piece that goes over that can come loose and it's hard to get to..so it got welded up.

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I might point out that this is one of those cases where a left handed drill bit would be awesome, this will let you drill the hole, and in many cases, will extract what is left of the old stud at the same time..I used to keep a few around but they have evaporated over the years.
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Postby Loren » Thu Feb 07, 2019 6:34 pm

I hate extracting broken stuff!
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Fri Feb 08, 2019 6:55 pm

You guys ready for the way back machine?

After cleaning stuff up, I inspected the heads, knocked off some casting flash inside some of the ports and started looking things over, it was obvious that this thing had a recent valve job so that wouldn't be necessary to redo. These are 5.0 smog heads, so there really isn't much to gain by porting them..as I have some in the past.

threw a little valve grinding compound at the valve seats with great results..

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I then marked the valve with a marker, to check it, on the exhausts, it's important to keep the seat away from the edge to avoid a burned valve

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As you can see, there is a bit of marker left above and below the seat, now back in the day, if we were serious, I would chuck the valve up and back grind the top of the valve at a 60 degree angle to improve the flow, you can bring the back cut right down to the seat area. You can do the same on the head, back cut the combustion chamber side at 60 degrees, and then back cut the port side at 30 degrees to improve the flow there. If you've ever heard the term..multi angle valve job, this is it. Back in the day we used to port the heads by hand (no cnc stuff then) and you'd CC the combustion chamber, the intake and exhaust ports and match them all up. It was a ton of work when you realize the same had to be done for the intake manifold, and it's runners. It could easily run $5K in 1970s money.

the valve seals are next, they look like this, the plastic is to prevent damage when going over the valve stem

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Next we install the valve springs and check installed height, if we were really serious we would check compressed height and pounds/pressure as well...we're not that serious..
Trick Flow has provided this nifty little go/no go gauge to help out.

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The exhausts required no shims, the intakes did get the smaller ones.

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So with the springs that completes the heads..with one exception..

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They sent me an exhaust retainer in place of one of the intake retainers..so it pays to check everything twice, I'll be calling Trick Flow on Monday

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Postby twistedwankel » Fri Feb 08, 2019 7:46 pm

Probably much better than when new. I like the pinch your butt stool in warning red.
You reminded me of too many steel studs seized and broken in aluminum heads. Funny to think about since they only went in finger tight originally and aluminum is so soft. Will you coat your exhaust studs with anything this time?
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Sat Feb 09, 2019 12:48 am

twistedwankel wrote:Probably much better than when new. I like the pinch your butt stool in warning red.
You reminded me of too many steel studs seized and broken in aluminum heads. Funny to think about since they only went in finger tight originally and aluminum is so soft. Will you coat your exhaust studs with anything this time?
Usually heat works with aluminum much better than with steel on steel, the only broken bolts were where studs were placed, the bolted holes were fine. Headers, being headers..seem to have their bolts loose all the time anyway, so I probably won't use anything like antisieze on them
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:19 pm

OK, it's now time to check the cam specs, while you can just install the cam "straight up" this would be the time to cover your bases. Instead of trying to explain it, I found a video that does a great job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yN4NymeU58
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 6:35 pm

and now we're down for some more engine assembly.. there is a massive hole in the oil pan, either for a block heater or an oil level monitor that takes a huge metric bolt to close. Since that is out of the question, I welded a nut in the hole, it has been my experience when dealing with welds and liquids, that TIG welding will do a great job of sealing things up...MIG, not so much, so after welding the area was sand blasted and a thin layer of JB weld spread around just so I can sleep at night. After that a reasonable size bolt was used with teflon tape to seal it up. I was going to weld it up, but decided to leave a way to slide a borescope in just in case I want to see what's in side..or something.

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I installed the front cover..Pro Tip..take some grease and line the inside of the seal, this is insurance when installing the balancer so the seal spring doesn't get pushed out of the seal causing a leak.
See my finger,? that's not grease..I actually drilled a hole in my hand earlier..the important lesson in that is to have the presence of mind to reverse the drill to remove it..

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When installing lifters I hold down slightly on the top of the lifter and using an oil can, force oil into the oil pin hole, you can feel the lifter fill up and the internal spring seat, you will also get a bit of oil on top of the lifter.

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This is done so that you don't have to rely on the oil pump to fill it during priming, if this had adjustable hydraulic cam, then you would need to do this in order to statically adjust the valves prior to start up, in this particular case the rockers simply bolt on.
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 5:42 pm

I pulled out a set of Crane /FR rockers I've had stashed for years. I noticed the set of Crane FR rockers seemed to have a couple of the end trunions sneaking out, I called Crane and they said that it was not a problem, tap them back in and make very sure the r oller is aligned with the valve tip....
uhmmm...OK, what do I know?, I'm just the tire guy..tapped them back in and made real sure the tips were aligned.

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You can see the wear mark on the roller where it was mis aligned..no more

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Some valve train pics

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THIS...is where I went to def con 5...I was hoping to have the engine buttoned up and the oil pump primed. I always do this before installing in the car because crap like this can happen.
The freaking oil pan had a hairline crack in it.. I removed it, cleaned it up, tried to weld it but the crack was so saturated with oil that I just blew holes in it, no matter how much I cleaned it..

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So it had to die.....................

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Postby Loren » Fri Feb 15, 2019 5:45 pm

I've always suspected that firefighters were a little unstable at heart.
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The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 7:29 pm

Every decent firefighter is a borderline pyro..I was told , years ago.
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Postby Loren » Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:24 pm

You have to know your enemy, right?
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The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
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Postby twistedwankel » Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:06 pm

Piss on it put it out as a group. I've known a one nutted Capt fire fighter. Capt Montegue in Toledo. Who stood across a hose that burst and got him in his one good remaining nut. He was even devoted to his divorced wife. How cool are they? Way cool.
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Sat Feb 16, 2019 7:40 pm

Sourced a new pan from Advanced, put it back together..and primed the oil pump, rotating the crank through 360 degrees while doing so..


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Got her all doll'd up..
not bad for a bunch of swapmeet parts

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and with that..I dug out my last remaining 3310-1 780 Holley carb..now days, if they even still make them with 2 metering blocks, it would probably cost about a grand

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here we go again....need a project name though..

Postby blacksheep-1 » Fri Mar 22, 2019 5:00 pm

OK, so finally got all the accessory drive system worked out, have waaayyy more money in it than I wanted to but I could not locate the parts in the local junk yard, the big issue was the right side bracket was a victim of the parts car wreck, so I had to source that, the pulleys weren't available, so they are BBK, then after all assembled, the fabricated valve cover wouldn't fit behind the alternator, fortunately...the guys at Forte's classic garage bailed me out by creating a step in the valve cover for the back of the alternator. Bottom line, it fit's and I can get the cover off and on.

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I still had to trim the bearing area of the alternator to fit..but fit it does.

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and a shameless plug for Forte's Classic auto, I've worked there part time over the last 35 years, they've built everything from Cobra Jet's ot Shelby GTs to Sunbeam Tigers and Panteras and everything in between..

https://www.fortesonline.com/
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Thu Apr 04, 2019 4:06 pm

Coming along, I was always taught to make sure the pilot bearing, clutch disc and throwout bearing all fit BEFORE assembly so you have no surprises..

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And in it is...in spite of the mounts moving the engine back an inch there is still a ton of weight over the nose.

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Postby Loren » Thu Apr 04, 2019 4:26 pm

If you take away ALL of the understeer, it won't be a Mustang.
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The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.

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